Know Your Weave

Applique:

  • Traditional UP-style hand-worked saree
  • Typically on cotton or organdy
  • Famed for its simplicity and vibrant base colours
  • Distinctive technique of motifs in individual pieces, sometimes sealed in with sequins, stitched in graceful formations on a base
  • Variations are plain sarees with border and aanchal or motifs in random placements across the saree
  • The aanchal is decorative

Baluchori

  • Traditional Bengal saree
  • Typically on cotton or silk
  • Famed for its intricate and elaborate threadwork and design
  • The patterns are based on mythological stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata
  • The aanchal is festive and rich

Bandhej / Bandhani/ Tie and Dye

  • Traditional Rajasthan-style tie and dye saree
  • Typically on cotton, Kota, silk, chiffon or georgette
  • Famed for its vibrancy and intricacy
  • Distinctive technique of pinching and tying the cloth in designs and then dyeing it
  • Light fabric with floral or geometric patterns
  • Bright colours with contrast borders and white patterns
  • Variations of butis with border or all-over work

Batik

  • Traditional Bengal saree
  • Typically on silk or cotton
  • Famed for its vibrant base colours and exotic designs
  • Distinctive technique of wax-resistant dyeing and designing with a sculpting tool
  • Variations of butis with border or all-over work
  • The aanchal is decorative

Block Print

  • Traditional Rajasthan-style hand-block print saree
  • Typically on cotton
  • Famed for its vibrancy and intricacy
  • Distinctive technique of using natural vegetable dyes and hand-cut wooden blocks
  • Off-white/ white/ beige with vibrant prints or bright colours with white patterns
  • Usually all-over work with a border
  • The aanchal is decorative

Chettinad

  • Traditional Tamil Nadu-style hand-woven saree
  • Typically on cotton
  • Famed for its clean lines and eclectic colours
  • Distinctive technique of colour and pattern with bold checks, stripes and contrasting hues
  • Variations are plain sarees with gold borders and all over patterns of checks and stripes interspersed with gold thread
  • The aanchal is simple.

Chikan

  • Traditional Lucknow-style embroidered saree
  • Typically on cotton, Chanderi or georgette
  • Famed for its delicacy and intricacy
  • Distinctive technique of fine stitches of white or coloured thread on solid colours
  • 70-90 types of stiches like chain stich, back stitch, shadow-work, jaali-work, tepchi, murri, keel kangan, etc.
  • Light fabric with floral or geometric patterns
  • Variations of butis with border or all-over work
  • The aanchal is decorative

Dhakai/ Dhakai Jamdani

  • Traditional Bengal and Bangladesh saree
  • Typically on muslin
  • Famed for its delicacy and transparency
  • Sheer fabric with the floral or geometric motifs in thicker thread
  • The aanchal is decorative, often with metallic accents

Dhonekhali (Tant)

  • Traditional Bengal saree
  • Typically on cotton
  • Slightly robust weave, perfect for daily wear
  • Characteristically a square-fold saree
  • Variations of checks, stripes, solid colour or butis
  • Narrow to wide borders and simple aanchals

Kalamkari

  • Traditional Andhra-style saree
  • Typically on cotton
  • Famed for its vibrant mythological and floral designs
  • Use of natural dyes in simple palettes
  • All over dyed block print (Macchilipatnam-syle) or free hand-drawn (Srikalahasti)
  • The aanchal is full with large motifs in ornate scenes

Kanjeevaram

  • Traditional silk saree from Tamil Nadu, popularly know as the ‘wedding saree’ or the ‘festival saree’ of the South
  • A craft that has been recognised by the Government of India
  • Typically a vibrant heavy silk with a gold border and aanchal
  • Famed for its vibrancy and richness
  • Variations are plain sarees with heavy borders or all-over worked sarees
  • The aanchal is very elaborate with detailed workmanship

Mysore Silk

  • Traditional silk saree from Karnataka, produced in the silk capital of India, Mysore
  • A high quality silk saree that is favoured for festivals and weddings
  • Typically a soft, yet heavy silk in bright colours with a gold border and aanchal
  • Famed for its draping ease and flowing fall
  • Variations are plain sarees with heavy borders, self patterns like flowers/ checks or butis on the body with heavy borders and aanchals.

Kancheepuram Cotton

  • Traditional cotton saree from Tamil Nadu
  • Typically in bright colours with a gold border and aanchal
  • Famed for its ‘dressy’ look, quite unlike regular cotton sarees
  • Variations are single colour sarees or self-stripes in many colours with gold borders
  • The aanchal is very elaborate with heavy gold workmanship

Linen

  • A saree from West Bengal
  • Made from flax
  • Typically in bright colours with a contrast borders with the aanchal ending in tassels or pom poms
  • Famed for breathable wearability and contemporary feel
  • Variations are two-colour or multi-colour sarees
  • The aanchal is simple with basic strips or plain colour blocks

Kantha

  • Traditional Bengal saree
  • Typically on tussar, silk or cotton
  • Famed for its richness of design and colour
  • Distinctive technique of running stitch patterns on floral or animal motifs
  • Variations of butis with border or all-over work
  • The aanchal is intricate and decorative

Kasavu

  • Traditional Kerala saree
  • Typically on cotton
  • Famed for its simplicity and purity
  • Off-white with contrast borders edged with shiny gold
  • Variations of butis with border or plain with border
  • The aanchal is either completely simple or heavily worked with gold motifs

Kota Doria

  • Traditional Rajasthan saree
  • Typically on cotton or silk
  • Famed for its delicacy and lightness
  • Distinctive technique of a checkered weave square (khats)
  • Light and bright colours with ombre, block print or gota-patti work
  • Variations of butis with border or all-over print

Leheriya

  • Traditional Rajasthan-style tie and dye saree
  • Typically on cotton, silk or chiffon
  • Famed for its vibrancy and elegance
  • Distinctive technique of striations and waves of colours across the saree
  • Bright colours with contrast or white patterns
  • Usually all-over work without a border

Tangail (Tant)

  • Traditional Bengal and Bangladesh saree
  • Typically on cotton or silk
  • Famed for its lightness and transparency
  • Characteristically a three-fold saree
  • Variations of floral, paisley motifs
  • Wide borders and decorative aanchals

Tussar

  • Traditional silk saree largely from West Bengal
  • Typically a golden coloured fabric which can be dyed in any shade
  • Famed for its textured feel and ease of draping
  • Usually a base for hand work like painting, block printing, embroidery, etc.
  • Variations are bold patterns and slashes of colour often with pallu-patli style
  • The aanchal is visually-appealing with elaborate work